Cape Wrath Trail: Glenfinnan to Shiel Bridge
I can’t remember how I discovered the Cape Wrath Trail, or exactly when I decided I’d like to walk it. I do remember being drawn to the route and spending time in areas I’d not visited before; crossing the remote region of Knoydart, being amongst the dramatic mountains of Torridon, and the wilds of the far north west. I was further inspired when I collected all the maps and plotted the trail.
The trail itself is not specifically defined and is not signposted along the way; it’s more of an idea, with suggested routes published and an online community. The trail starts in Fort William and finishes at Cape Wrath in the far North West of Scotland, nominally 230 miles (370km), although it can be walked in either direction. Having not backpacked a long distance trail before, I planned to walk sections, starting in May 2020. Unfortunately, plans changed with the pandemic, the various lockdowns, and not wanting to risk being ill in a remote area.
Eighteen months later I finally started…
Day 1 - Glenfinnan to Glen Pean
After driving north, with an overnight stop in Edinburgh, I took a train from Fort William to Glenfinnan. Not inspired by 10km of road after a ferry crossing from Fort William, I decided to start at Glenfinnan, arriving by train across the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct. The area, with its increased popularity through featuring in the Harry Potter films, has recently been developed to ease access. Walking up Glen Finnan the tourists and the sounds of their drones faded, replaced by the sound of water, birdsong and the wind in the trees. Passing into Gleann a’ Chaorainn gave the first feeling of remoteness and that big country feel. I dropped into Glen Pean to camp for the night, the occasional breeze giving brief respite from the evening midges.
Day 2 - Glen Pean to Sourlies
My hopes for a leisurely breakfast were dashed by midges out in force. I got moving quickly, without coffee, not wanting to hang around. Within a few minutes I heard quick steps behind me, a fell runner from Glenfinnan out for an early morning run to see Loch Arkaig. I made my way up Glen Dessary, mostly on forest track, then steadily up the open valley. Walking on my own I found I was noticing things I wouldn’t otherwise - reflections of the recent lockdowns in the UK. The soft light on the fir trees, highlighting their branches. The early signs and colours of autumn. The light wind rippling still reflections. Descending towards Sourlies I met the first of others walking the trail; familiar faces I would see over the next few days. Arriving at Sourlies after a relatively short day, the feeling of remoteness and isolation really struck me. Sourlies is at the end of a long sea loch, away from civilisation. Food and a mug of tea settled the apprehension and I began to relax, settling to watch a herd of deer graze on the salt marsh. It was nice to be able to chill out in the bothy sheltered from the light rain, listening to it fall.
Early evening I was joined by another walker, Charlie, a geography student from the South West. He almost burst into the bothy with relief, apparently avoiding possible disappointment by convincing himself it would be locked. He was on a whistle stop trip to Scotland, with dissertation commitments to be back for, and was keen to make the most of the time. He had already completed the Aonach Eagah ridge in Glencoe and caught the late afternoon train to Glenfinnan the day before.
Wow, Sourlies, what a spot!!
Day 3 - Sourlies to Kinloch Hourn
The following day was overcast and damp, mainly drizzle with a few showers. I walked with Charlie up the valley, following the River Carnach, parting just before the ascent towards Barrisdale. He was planning a longer day, to enable an epic final day over the tops in time to catch the bus back to Fort William. It was a steady climb through atmospheric broken cloud, over Mam Unndalain before descending towards Barrisdale Bay.
I caught up with Charlie at Barrisdale, who after pausing was about to set off. It seemed too early to finish and I wasn’t relishing the prospect of a long damp evening hiding from the midges, so I decided to walk on. The path to Kinloch Hourn, although undulating and overgrown in places, was not as bad as reputed. I decided to camp at Kinloch Hourn, while Charlie continued, camping high towards the ridge he planned for the next day. After dinner the breeze dropped, and I was once again confined to the tent.
Day 4 - Kinloch Hourn to Shiel Bridge
On went the damp socks, ready for the early river crossing, saving the dry pair in my sack. The day started with a steady climb up a rocky track to views back over the Loch. The river crossing of All a’ Choire Reidh was straightforward despite the rain of the previous day. The track was soon left for a direct route up Coire Mhàlagain, pausing for coffee in the breeze. The bealach was in disorientating cloud and some careful navigation was required. Contouring alone under the Forcan Ridge I was joined by a sense of paranoia, concerned about dropping into the wrong Valley or slipping on the wet broken rocks, neither of which would have been good! The descent down Coire Caol to Shiel Bridge was straightforward and remarkably dry.
I stopped at the Shiel Bridge campsite, enjoying dinner and couple of pints with a few of the walkers I’d met. The return by bus to Fort William the following day was quick and easy; encouraging for walking more of the trail.
It was an enjoyable few days and an area I’d like to return to, to walk the big hills of Knoydart and the Forcan Ridge closer to Shiel Bridge. Sourlies deserves another visit too! I also learnt a lot about the equipment, food and approaches for these longer multi-day walks, compared with shorter weekend trips, and I’m looking forward to the next one…
The Cape Wrath Trail
“The Cape Wrath Trail is an unofficial, unmarked and magnificently wild long distance route from Fort William to Cape Wrath, the most north westerly point of mainland Scotland. A superb and challenging route for experienced long-distance backpackers, the Trail passes through some of Scotland's most spectacular landscapes.”